Thanks guys. • Ads taken off board & trimmed to 1/2 inch border. Am much happier with these results. •Minor bleed through from backside of paper, no color loss during deacid process, both dried nicely.
They look fantastic...I am wondering if there would be anyway to get them so there is no bleed through from the back, considering they were printed both sides? I would think not...?
Good point, Ves. I have auctioned ads like these where the backer used a solid black rice paper between the ad and the linen, and that did stop the bleed through from the back. I know nothing of where one gets the solid black rice paper or if it is conservation safe, but the ads are not worth very much anyway, and they look far better.
HAS lifetime guarantees on every item - IS eMoviePoster.com HAS unrestored and unenhanced images - IS eMoviePoster.com HAS 100% honest condition descriptions - IS eMoviePoster.com HAS auctions where the winner is the higher of two real bidders - IS eMoviePoster.com HAS up to SIXTEEN weeks of "Pay and Hold" to save a fortune on shipping - IS eMoviePoster.com HAS real customer service before, during and after EVERY auction, and answers all questions - IS eMoviePoster.com
HAS 25% or 26% "buyers premiums" of any kind (but especially the dreadful "$29 or $49 minimum" ones) - NOT eMoviePoster.com HAS "reserves or starts over $1 - NOT eMoviePoster.com HAS hidden bidder IDs - NOT eMoviePoster.com HAS "nosebleed" shipping charges - NOT eMoviePoster.com HAS inadequate packaging - NOT eMoviePoster.com HAS no customer service to speak of, before, during and after any auction, and answers almost no questions - NOT eMoviePoster.com
They look fantastic...I am wondering if there would be anyway to get them so there is no bleed through from the back, considering they were printed both sides? I would think not...?
Thanks, Ves. I noticed from my original papers that even when dry-before deacidification- you can see some print from the backside. I'll try an even weaker deacid solution next time & see what results are produced.
Good point, Ves. I have auctioned ads like these where the backer used a solid black rice paper between the ad and the linen, and that did stop the bleed through from the back. I know nothing of where one gets the solid black rice paper or if it is conservation safe, but the ads are not worth very much anyway, and they look far better.
I mentioned in the thread "finding supplies" that Cinemasterpieces used to offer black paper linenbacking. Not sure if it was black masa or what...black sulphite paper as Charlie mentioned.
Thought I'd resurrect this thread...been almost 2 months since I've backed anything. Finally got to a piece my wife wants me to back so we can frame & hang. Lover Come Back-22x28. Before...
I took Dario's advice & applied the Masa paper 24 hrs before so it was dry when I applied the poster to the Masa. After...poster's been drying for about 7 hrs...
Thanks Dario, wasn't exactly how long it would keep in the fridge-here are two picts of pouring through strainer & residual "clumps" left in strainer. Btw-what kind of strainer do you use? I want to find a fine plastic one-I'm in my second metal one.
Mine is about the size of a large lemon-and likely not stainless as it has gotten a bit of rust where i don't get it completely dry after rinsing-no soap of course.
I cook my wheat starch-Aytex from Talas-along with about 10% Cal Carb-the night before-let cool overnight in fridge
-next day add "rubbery" cool temp paste into blender adding distilled water to get honey-like consistency-then pour through strainer.
-results have been good so far-been soaking wheat starch for 60 mins before cooking-not sure that helps-literature says it creates a stronger bond.
Ya Mark, that is good! When the paste is cool the following day, it should come out in the form/look of the container it was stored in. Not soupy/runny.
Comments
After....on board drying.
There is still some bleed through but deacid process went much better-not completely dry yet, another 24 hrs will tell.
Overall very happy there was no loss in color or degradation of image like previous attempt.
Will take off board & trim in next 24-48.
• Ads taken off board & trimmed to 1/2 inch border. Am much happier with these results.
•Minor bleed through from backside of paper, no color loss during deacid process, both dried nicely.
HAS unrestored and unenhanced images - IS eMoviePoster.com
HAS 100% honest condition descriptions - IS eMoviePoster.com
HAS auctions where the winner is the higher of two real bidders - IS eMoviePoster.com
HAS up to SIXTEEN weeks of "Pay and Hold" to save a fortune on shipping - IS eMoviePoster.com
HAS real customer service before, during and after EVERY auction, and answers all questions - IS eMoviePoster.com
HAS 25% or 26% "buyers premiums" of any kind (but especially the dreadful "$29 or $49 minimum" ones) - NOT eMoviePoster.com
HAS "reserves or starts over $1 - NOT eMoviePoster.com
HAS hidden bidder IDs - NOT eMoviePoster.com
HAS "nosebleed" shipping charges - NOT eMoviePoster.com
HAS inadequate packaging - NOT eMoviePoster.com
HAS no customer service to speak of, before, during and after any auction, and answers almost no questions - NOT eMoviePoster.com
Looking now. Let me know if you find some.
You could do this . Get the Itoya portfolio.
https://store.opusartsupplies.com/sagro/storefront/store.php?mode=showproductdetail&product=11909
Take the black acid free paper page out for backing.
When done pop it back in,double whammy.
Best,
dario.
Lover Come Back-22x28.
Before...
After...poster's been drying for about 7 hrs...
**But, it's drying faster, with less noticeable wrinkles in lower right border.
From a procedural standpoint, it was easier to lay masa one day, then poster 2nd day-although I had to prep wheat paste 2-days in a row...
You can cook enough paste for all steps.
Just refrigerate it between the days/steps. It is good for several days.
Make sure you re strain it before use again. so you don't get lumps.
Cheers,
dario.
Btw-what kind of strainer do you use? I want to find a fine plastic one-I'm in my second metal one.
Mental note to self: "When stopping over at Dario's on my way through Canadia, politely refuse when he asks "Can I get you a beer..?"
Mark, I use a large commercial stainless steel strainer, about 8 times bigger that the one you use.
Question, Is that cool paste you strain or hot out of the boiler?
Best,
dario.
Mine is about the size of a large lemon-and likely not stainless as it has gotten a bit of rust where i don't get it completely dry after rinsing-no soap of course.
I cook my wheat starch-Aytex from Talas-along with about 10% Cal Carb-the night before-let cool overnight in fridge
-next day add "rubbery" cool temp paste into blender adding distilled water to get honey-like consistency-then pour through strainer.
-results have been good so far-been soaking wheat starch for 60 mins before cooking-not sure that helps-literature says it creates a stronger bond.
Best,
dario.
Here sits the latest effort waiting for a small amount of pencils before getting cut down.