Well I didn't know this.. Charlie, Mark do you add a buffering agent to your wheat paste?
The food-grade wheat paste that is the standard in the linen-mounting industry is unbuffered and thus slightly acidic, which can contribute to the eventual discoloration of a poster over time. Chameleon Restoration takes the small extra step of adding a buffering agent to our wheat paste, rendering it pH neutral to ensure your poster is chemically stable as well as physically stable.
Have you attempted or would you attempt to remove a "Kraftbacked" poster? Would it be an immersion soak then Kraft paper removal? Or do you think a steam approach would be better? such as when removing paper tape?
Have you attempted or would you attempt to remove a "Kraftbacked" poster? Would it be an immersion soak then Kraft paper removal? Or do you think a steam approach would be better? such as when removing paper tape?
Remove it from where... Is it a good title? I'll remove it from whomever owns it...
Yep, actually pretty easy... I have used a steamer. Since the craft paper is heavier and doesn't tear easily it just peels right off.
You could soak it too. But it has to be a good soak. Most kraft tape is somewhat water proof from the carrier side so the penetration is from the poster side.
Thanks! I wasn't sure if a soak or steam would be the best approach. But I would have never thought to steam/push the water through from the front side of the poster to loosen the glue holding the Kraft paper on! Great stuff!
I haven't priced the poster yet, there is one up for auction & I like it, but was wondering how hard it would be. I don't have a steamer; or ever tried it: would have to go to Lowes to pick one up. Thanks again, good info!
Yep, actually pretty easy... I have used a steamer. Since the craft paper is heavier and doesn't tear easily it just peels right off.
You could soak it too. But it has to be a good soak. Most kraft tape is somewhat water proof from the carrier side so the penetration is from the poster side.
im guessing the "carrier side" is the exposed side? Was just reading the other day-an Am Institute for Conservation article on removing "pressure sensitive tape removal and they identify 4-layers in a "cello" type of tape. Very interesting.
Hey Charlie, had read some old threads, where you were discussing the last steps of the linenbacking process.
Was wondering, how do you finish a one sheet after you lay the poster down-do you still use a brayer? Does this "push" out to much wheat paste? Or just smooth it out with a squeege?
Also-after that step do use prop the poster up on painters blocks? I've never let mine dry standing up? Does it matter regarding the fold lines that may or may not show up more noticeable?
Ive always dried mine flat, supported by something so it dries from top and bottom..
Was wondering, how do you finish a one sheet after you lay the poster down-do you still use a brayer? Does this "push" out to much wheat paste? Or just smooth it out with a squeege?
Also-after that step do use prop the poster up on painters blocks? I've never let mine dry standing up? Does it matter regarding the fold lines that may or may not show up more noticeable?
Ive always dried mine flat, supported by something so it dries from top and bottom..
Thanks.
I still roll mine but there are varying strength at which you can roll. I never roll down into the poster and I roll in a pattern from the center. I use to dry mine flat until Dario said it didn't matter and it doesn't. I dry them leaning up now.
What are peoples views on gel backing? Anyone tried it?
I think gel backing is stupid. I went on a whole diatribe about on the "forum that has no name". Gel backing just creates a situation where the paper will chip and flake off later. Some think it the best thing to do for lobbies and the only sign of good work (cough - Sean). I think it's just idiotic, when you could provide better support and still do it with an accepted conservation practice like paper backing.
Hello. I can't find masa paper (large enough that I can afford). Is Japanese Mulberry "rice" ph neutral paper (Wenzhou Xuan brand) suitable? I've read that it's used for paper-only backing. It is hand made, not machine but is still long fiber.
Can you share a good place to purchase it? That would be great... I got the Japanese Mulberry "rice" paper very cheap. $25 for a wide 30 foot roll. I believe it is similar in strength etc. I was wondering, since I have this paper and it is acid free with very similar qualities, if it will work. Have you heard of it and is there a bigger benefit to masa?
You can use mulberry. It's just not the standard paper for linenbacking. I see no advantages because you would have to explain why you used it. Being cheap isn't the best excuse for conservation/restoration... One disadvantage is that it is it most likely lighter in weight vs. masa (50 GSM vs 70 GSM) so the characteristics and texture of the cotton canvas may overpower the paper or the sandwich becomes more rigid. I've never linen backed anything with mulberry - it might be a good experiment... Else I love it for paper backing...
Just to clean and mount Calcium Hydroxide (is this the same stuff used in pools) How much to use or should I come up with this myself... A tub to bath in or just spray the piece (maybe still in a tub enclosure) Can the tub be plastic? Mylar sheets on both sides of the print A Squeegee Masa Paper... can find rolls in Canada (help anyone) or where in the US can I get this shipped Canvas (Acid free cotton) Wheat starch
Other things?
Thanks. Have a bunch of prints coming and going to try this out. Anyone want to donate some vintage stuff that is messed up... I will pay the shipping. I want to try all the techniques and get a fell for this.
Comments
Exactly! I was beginning to think they all siphoned it out of large drums!
You could soak it too. But it has to be a good soak. Most kraft tape is somewhat water proof from the carrier side so the penetration is from the poster side.
I haven't priced the poster yet, there is one up for auction & I like it, but was wondering how hard it would be. I don't have a steamer; or ever tried it: would have to go to Lowes to pick one up. Thanks again, good info!
Was wondering, how do you finish a one sheet after you lay the poster down-do you still use a brayer? Does this "push" out to much wheat paste? Or just smooth it out with a squeege?
Also-after that step do use prop the poster up on painters blocks? I've never let mine dry standing up? Does it matter regarding the fold lines that may or may not show up more noticeable?
Ive always dried mine flat, supported by something so it dries from top and bottom..
Thanks.
I think gel backing is stupid. I went on a whole diatribe about on the "forum that has no name". Gel backing just creates a situation where the paper will chip and flake off later. Some think it the best thing to do for lobbies and the only sign of good work (cough - Sean). I think it's just idiotic, when you could provide better support and still do it with an accepted conservation practice like paper backing.
I got the Japanese Mulberry "rice" paper very cheap. $25 for a wide 30 foot roll. I believe it is similar in strength etc. I was wondering, since I have this paper and it is acid free with very similar qualities, if it will work. Have you heard of it and is there a bigger benefit to masa?