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Let's talk about masking for image restoration!

So this may be an intermediate topic but a very important one for those that give into this insanity. 

Uses for Masking:

1.  You can use it to protect the paper support (masa) so as not to get the paper covered in paint...

2.  You can use it to block paint from getting directly onto an image.

3.  You can use it to confine paint to a specific area - like lettering and borders.

Types of Masking:

- Tape

- Frisket Sheets

- Frisket liquid

- Plain old paper

- Mylar or plastic sheeting (applied with tape or after a dusting of adhesive to make it stick)

Issues and Concerns:

- The tape/frisket sheet doesn't release and will rip off the image.

- Adhesive stays behind on the poster.

- You don't let your liquid frisket dry well enough and you rip off the image.


Which leads me to the meat of this topic - an experiment...  I have recently stumbled onto a top secret application that may provide additional support to the paper that would prevent image loss when a masking doesn't really release well.  So I've taken an old lobby card and divided it in half and treated the left side, while the right side stays untreated.  I then applied the many different types of tapes and a piece of frisket sheeting.  I will wait 48 hours and then record the removal.  Here is what it looks like right now:



Comments

  • So you've applied your new, undisclosed application to half of the card, and the other half without-then applied the same tape to both sides. 

    Questions:
    -is it necessary to remove your secret application from the surface of the card after removal of the tape? 

    -could the surface that has received the special application still accept restoration? Pencils? Paint? Or would it block it? 

    -i remember reading some of your thread on APF where you sprayed a light adhesive-as mentioned above-to create a "stick" of Mylar so you could mask an area-what was the spray adhesive? 

    Thanks much for any info-appreciate you taking time to share. 

  • It does not have to be removed.  I'll go ahead and mark it up with water color pencils as part of the experiment...  I'll tell you the secret application over PM if it works.

  • Thanks, would appreciate it! and for the Scotch Spray Mount as well. 

    Regarding Liquid Frisket. I've read that it's used to cover for spray & as you mentioned above-but I was hoping to wash the old Title Lobby Card that might have an authentic Jimmy Stewart auto. The card has staining/toning & needs a wash/deacid/bleaching. 

     
    Was hoping to apply masking fluid to the autograph to protect during the wash-remove afterward. Any ideas if the frisket will hold up during a wash/deacid/bleaching? Am skeptical. 

    Thanks. 
  • If it is sharpie it won't wash off.  Else use fixative to hold it on.  Frisked may not be best in a wash...
  • edited December 2015
    Interesting, so the secret is 'Charlie's Secret Paper Treatment Formula'
  • Cool. You used a photo still from 55. Looks like it worked!

    Imagine similar results for a lobby card? Thinner paper of one sheet?

     Only tape I've used in masa is the yellow Frog tape. 
  • No it was a lobby card...
  • More images:


    The white even shows up better on the treated side.


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